20 June: Oseira to Castro Dozon

“Do you have five minutes?” 

“We have all day, ” I replied to the Hospitalero, who had just escorted us through the wide stone corridors of the monastery to and from early morning mass. On the way to mass he had shown us the room the British novelist Graham Greene had stayed in. What other treasure did he have?

 The library! The official tour of the monastery does not include the library; we felt privileged.

 I have lots of questions about the purpose of this library and the contents and whether there is any way of making the books accessible to people and would anyone even want to read them (but now they can’t even if they wanted to)… Take note that Mary is wearing shoes, because the monastery is so cold – so we were told. It could well be the truth!

 We will miss fresh cool spring water! It tastes so clear.

 We had planned a short day for today – to reduce our mileage each day and be in Santiago on Thursday, one day needed to be a little one and this seemed a good day to do it as the albergue is right next to the Municipal Swimming Pool. Too bad the pool turned out to be green!!!!  

At least there is a supermarket in town. Two words in that sentence are a bit of an exaggeration. Town would be best replaced by “village” or “row of houses along the road” and supermarket….let me tell you about the supermarket!

There was a big supermarket sign, but all we could find (apart from a lady killing chickens in her yard behind the bar) was the bar. Inside there was a stand with potato chips, but that seemed a bit of an understatement for the term “supermarket”. So I asked.

“Yes, go through that door.” Do you mean that low skinny door that looks like it leads to a broom cupboard? No harm in trying, and if I’ve misunderstood, I’m sure she’ll tell me.

Well, what do you know! The wooden door led to marble stairs and down the stairs was a veritable Aladdin’s Cave. You could buy a mop or chocolate bar or pickled gherkins or round of cheese or air freshener or bottle of vodka (or any one of about twenty other types of alcohol for that matter) or cupcakes by the kilo or yoghurt by the dozen or a box of rennet or a whole salami. But I still think “supermarket” was a bit big of a word to describe this small room stuffed full of goodies. We chose butter and ham to go with our bread from Cea. 

  As we were leaving the supermarket, Sophie came down the road. She had already been to the albergue and could confirm there was a great kitchen complete with pots and pans and plates to feed fifty people so we squeezed back into the store and chose some food for dinner. Pasta, chicken, corn, peas, tomatoes, pickles, pimientos, eggs and mayonnaise…sounds like a salad in the making!

  Distance: 11.5km Total Distance: 887km


4 thoughts on “20 June: Oseira to Castro Dozon

    • Interestingly, the bread was VERY like some we make (that the kids complain isn’t soft and fluffy enough!) This village has been using the same method and supplying the district for over 300 years! Must use wood-fired oven and only flour, salt, water and sourdough starter.

  1. Wow! Would have loved to wander around the monastery….especially the library! The photo of the lone tree is intriguing…almost like every time a branch has appeared it has been chopped off! 😊

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