16 June: finding bread in Laza

We arrived about quarter past two. Shops shut at 2 and open again at 5, and we were not carrying any extra food and the kids were not impressed that lunch would be so late!

Showers, washing, foot care, making beds…that all took a bit of time and then we headed into the village. We needed to buy dinner food (no point calling it lunch any more!) and breakfast and some snacks for walking tomorrow. I even thought it might be an idea to get something for lunch seeing as we have another long day and may not make it before 2!

We scoped out the food shops and generally wandered around. HONK!! We heard the bread van and so we changed direction and headed for the honking. Everyone was hungry enough to chomp on some bread, especially if it was fresh. As we approached the square I got a distinct waft of fish. Rounding the corner, we discovered the bread van was the fish van in this instance. And we were not *that* hungry.

Half an hour later the supermarket provided our usual staples – a jar of lentils, a can of corn, tinned tomatoes, chorizo, onion, garlic…..a soup was coming together. There were salami and cheese, peaches and bananas, and chocolate and peanuts for tomorrow as well as yoghurt and cereal for breakfast. We just needed some bread. You don’t buy bread at a supermarket. You need a bakery. 

“Go down to the main road, turn right and it’s at the far end of the village. There’s a sign outside.”

Well, that should be easy enough. Ella-Rose and I took off, leaving the others holding our bags of goodies and eating their we-walked-at-least-25km-today icecreams. We got all the way to the end of the village and found the bakery and it was closed. I have been here long enough now to know that a closed door does not mean you cannot get bread. I went to the little stationer’s shop next door and asked if the bakery was open (OK, so a bit obvious when the shutters are all pulled closed, but I have linguistic limitations that prevent me saying what I really want to!). Anyway, the two little ladies who were sitting there doing their mending and having a good ol’ chinwag understood me well enough and (I thought) told me I had to go right round the building to the other side. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so we trotted off. “The building” was actually a whole block of buildings backing onto each other with a garden thrown in for good measure, but we kept looking. And sure enough, right round the other side and up an alley was the bakery. We looked inside. There was bread. A lot of bread. But the door was locked and there were no people. We rang the doorbell of the house next door. We knocked on the next door. All to no avail. I remembered having seen a man under one of the houses we had just passed so I went back to ask my obvious question again. He sent me up the street to knock on yet another door. Just as I raised my hand, a young guy with a dog came round the corner and asked, “Do you want some bread?” Yes please! We returned to the bakery and he showed me what was on offer. We took two large loaves to share with everyone for dinner tonight and five cute little baguettes for lunch tomorrow. The baker threw in a chocolate croissant that Ella-Rose was eyeing up;-) There will be no grumpy hungry kids tomorrow!

 The chefs

 The dinner and the eaters

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9 thoughts on “16 June: finding bread in Laza

  1. You don’t want to have to walk another 30km to find the next bakery when you can see the loaves in this one. It’s worth persisting!

  2. I would like be there with you!!! I miss the Camino and the runs and laughs, the painfull days too!!! I envy us. Send goods moods to the grumpy kids. You are quasi there!

  3. What a great meal. Perfect for sharing. Pilgrim soup sounds and looks delicious. Silly question – do you use the liquid that comes with the lentils, corn and peas or drain it off?

  4. Ahhh was thinking maybe you would keep some liquid to compensate for lack of seasoning. Though chorizo and garlic would add a lot of flavour. It’s a brilliant and doable recipe. Perfect for communal dinners. I’m going to adopt it when and if I do a Camino and plan to test it out at home before I go. I will make sure I credit the original chefs. ๐Ÿ™‚

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