Was it the friendly locals who told us where to go, but took us away from our guidebook instructions?
Was it the humidity? So Incredibly Sticky.
Was it the overcast grey pressing down on the city, looking like an enormous bonfire was burning? (we couldn’t even see the hills we walked over two days ago – completely obliterated)
Was it the little sibling niggles?
Was it running out of water?
Was it the walking without the prospect of seeing anyone we had already met? (they are all ahead or home now)
Was it the cold showers? I’m sure they didn’t help!
Was it the fact that we anticipated walking a maximum of 15km, but by the time we had wandered in the morning, gone up to Naranco, been sent on rabbit trails through town and finally got onto the Primitivo Path, we clocked up 22km?
Obviously we have walked further than that and over tougher terrain, but today’s walking went on forever; it seemed it would never end. There was nothing wrong with it, it was not overly strenuous, but it just went on and on.
We had actually really enjoyed the beautiful simplicity of the buildings at Naranco (and the kids had loved being given piles of sweets and biscuits by the guide there), we had loved having a couple of Spanish men come up to us on the street calling “Kiwi-family” and offering kisses (we had walked the Salvador with them, and they were now cleanshaven and smartly dressed and heading home to their wives in Madrid – Hi Manuel if you are reading!!), we had enjoyed being back in hiking clothes, we were grateful to get five of the twelve beds here despite our late start, we really enjoyed some sourdough bread, but at the end of the day, this one will just not end up as one of our favourites.
It will be remembered, however. It is the first day on the Primitivo route. It is also the day we decided to change the parameters for dishing out aniseed balls at day’s end. Now that Ella-Rose has shown she knows how to choose not to grizzle if she wants to, we’re going to work on something different to make daddy proud. Aniseedy-proudy-daddy-days will occur when siblings make a concerted effort to get on with each other and live in peace – here’s to a Peaceful Primitivo!
Cumulative Distance: 897km for the boys and mama, 597km for the girls
103km for the boys and 403km for the girls to get to 1,000!
Dinner: sourdough bread, chicken soup with beans and a jar of veges, a bar of chocolate, milk rolls and some peanuts – we were hungry!