21 May: Najera to Ciruena


The day will forever be remembered as the day we walked under a thundercloud…..there was no thunder in the sky, but one little person bellowed her own. Her howls mingled with the wind, which swept over the grapevines and whistled through the wheat.


Today will also probably be remembered as the day we lost our first “camino family”. There is a bunch of us who have been doing the same distance each day, and largely staying in the same (cheap!) accommodations. Last night we opted for a good night’s sleep not in a massive dormitory….when wandering around town in the late afternoon we bumped into some of the dormitory crowd and it was just like meeting family.Today, however, most of them will walk on further. We have taken a short day supposedly as a psychological boost to the shortest legs (although she clearly failed to recognise the blessing) and also because we can’t get any closer to Granon or we will not be allowed to stay there – and we would like to. We have bid adieu to our old “family” as they have passed us while we waited beside the path – some of them kindly gave mama reports on what was happening behind her with the papa and baby. Goodbye to Dennis and Fran, goodbye to the Japanese ladies, goodbye to Mr LongShower and his buddies, goodbye to the French couple and the German couple.

We have ended up in the bizarrest of places. This is a small new town – rows upon rows of apartment blocks and streets of duplex houses, all brand spanking new. And all apparently unoccupied. It’s one thing to walk through old villages that have seen hundreds of years of life and death before falling into decay. It is quite something else to see a modern ghost town; abandoned before it was even occupied. Our lodgings, however, are not new. Downstairs, the stable door suggests animals once made their home in the big space that has been turned into a lounge area complete with the host’s paintings adorning the concrete walls. Upstairs the bedrooms are filled with modern bunks and ancient rickety chairs.


Destination: Ciruena
Distance: 16km
Cumulative Distance: 461km
539km to go to 1,000
Weather: WINDY….head wind, what’s more!
Dinner: bread, salami and cheese with a packet of potato chips and chocolate biscuits


8 thoughts on “21 May: Najera to Ciruena

  1. Oh, that must be a sadness to lose some of the ‘family’. I was reading some other information on the Camina the other day and alerted to just how social and spiritual it is. Still, blessings come in many ways.

  2. You might meet some of that ‘family’ again. It seems that people take ‘short’ days at different places along the way for various reasons. That sky does look very dramatic…

    • Your forecasted rain fell on either side of us today – big clouds above each set of hills and we walked through he middle. It’s been raining since and the wind is howling.

  3. Sounds like your ‘machine children’ could use a spell in the service station! That sustained effort may be uncovering a few components requiring some TLC! A video from Mike Lane in Alivier shows them enduring 100km gusts of wind so that wind is pretty wide-spread. Ghost town reminds me of similar sights in China.

    • They had an afternoon at the playground and then card games…..the day dragged slowly! Another short day tomorrow – hopefully will get beds at a great albergue.

  4. I must have missed something….what is the prohibition on Granon? BTW love the pics with the ominous clouds a-loomin’

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